The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075

As we’ve defined already, Breguet, one of the crucial vital manufacturers within the trade, is celebrating this yr its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his firm in 1775. With this in thoughts, we will let you know that Breguet has already launched a number of particular version watches, all accomplished in its devoted 18k Breguet gold alloy, and might be delivering extra all year long. The celebrations began with the Classique Souscription 2025, a tribute to the well-known Souscription pocket watches. Then got here the Custom Seconde Rétrograde 7035, a tribute to the automated watch. It’s now time to take a look at one other vital facet of the Breguet household, aviation. And for that, we now have two beautiful, compact, hand-wound, historically-inspired Breguet Kind XX Chronograph 2075. 

Background

As I’ve defined on this in-depth article in regards to the new era of Breguet Kind XX and Kind 20, there’s extra to the Breguet household than watchmaking. If A.L. Breguet is usually seen as a pioneer of recent horology, Louis Breguet (1880-1955), a descendant of A.L. Breguet, was one of many pioneers of aviation in France. He based the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, exporting his planes to a number of international locations across the globe and collaborating within the basis of Air France. He additionally saved a superb relationship with the Brown household that had acquired the watchmaking firm in 1870. It was, due to this fact, solely pure that plane producer Louis Breguet turned to the Browns to buy watches from the Breguet watchmaking firm.

Then, again within the early Fifties, the French Air Pressure was trying to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch assembly the next technical specs. This resulted in a codename Kind 20 (army) or Kind XX (civilian), a black-dialed chronograph with retour en vol (flyback) operate and rotating bezel. A number of corporations competed and gained contracts, which meant that a number of manufacturers would produce Kind XX and Kind 20 watches – Dodane, Auricoste, Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa and, after all, Breguet. For the latter, the prototypes submitted by the corporate in 1952 have been accredited in 1953 by the Service Method Aéronautique. In 1954, the French Air Pressure positioned an order for 1,100 army Kind 20 watches, which have been delivered between 1955 and 1959.

Over time, 4 generations of Kind XX might be produced, together with the well-known return within the mid-Nineteen Nineties with the 3800ST and the present era, launched as a 42mm computerized watch with in-house, high-frequency chronograph motion in 2 editions, Kind XX and Kind 20. A gold mannequin adopted final yr, impressed by one in all three stable gold prototypes in 1955, with blue enamel numerals on the bezel, such because the quantity 1780 you may see above, which is now the property of the Breguet Museum. That is as soon as once more a supply of inspiration for the fashions launched as a part of the 250th anniversary assortment… Besides that this time, issues come a lot nearer to the unique variations of the Fifties. And that’s fairly nice, to say the least.

The two new Breguet Kind XX Chronograph 2075

Moreover the plain historic inspiration and the tribute to the uncommon gold prototypes of 1955, Breguet can be utilizing this celebratory yr to pay homage to the opposite facet of the Household, specifically the aviation pioneer Louis Breguet and the aviator duo Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte, the primary individuals to fly from Paris to New York, who achieved this feat in simply over 37 hours from the first to the 2nd of September, 1930, onboard a Breguet 19TR Tremendous Bidon (a modified model of the a bomber and reconnaissance plane extensively used for long-distance flights, with bigger gas tank). This adopted the solo flight from New York to Paris by the American Charles Lindbergh in 1927.

For the event of this yr’s celebrations, Breguet releases not one however two watches; one as a devoted tribute to the previous, the opposite as a extra uncommon tackle the idea with a shocking dial, and each clad in 18k Breguet gold alloy, as all watches for the 250th anniversary. The 2 new Breguet Kind XX Chronograph 2075 are deep diversifications of the 4th era of the pilot’s chronograph launched in 2023. In actual fact, these come nearer in type and proportions to the distinctive Kind XX Large Eye 2065ST made for Solely Watch 2021. Why that…? As a result of we’re trying right here at two drastically decreased, slimmed-down, streamlined watches. The 2023 fashions have been 42mm, computerized, with a date and pretty massive on the wrist. The two new Kind XX Chronograph 2075 change all of that.

Let’s begin with the case, shared by each editions, which retains the basic look of Fifties civilian Kind XX watches, with a bidirectional bezel with a 12-hour scale and quick, barely twisted lugs. However the reference to the previous goes stronger in proportion, as the 2 new fashions now measure solely 38.3mm in diameter, the identical because the previous watches. The thickness, because of a hand-wound motion, has additionally been decreased to 13.2mm (vs. 14.1mm for the automated 42mm fashions), regardless of a thick box-shaped sapphire crystal on high. The case, manufactured from 18k Breguet gold (a mix of gold enriched with silver, copper and palladium) is satin-finished with polished accents, incorporates a screwed caseback with sapphire crystal, a flat crown and is water resistant to 50m.

And sure, it will likely be completely improbable on the wrist… Compact, retro-styled, comfy, only a bit thick (in a great way) and quick. It’s the case we’ve been ready for with the 4th era of Kind XX, the one that ought to have been made at first, should you ask me… Time will inform if a metal or titanium model might be launched quickly (fingers crossed). The one distinction between the 2 editions, relating to the case, is the numerals on the bezel, picked up in black on the non-limited black version, and in blue on the restricted silver mannequin.

Let’s now discuss in regards to the dials. The primary of the 2 variations, with its matte black dial and provided as a particular, non-limited mannequin, is an apparent launch. Basic, anticipated however merely nice trying. The dial is right here made in anodised aluminium, a tribute to Louis Breguet, who pioneered using Duralumin (an alloy containing 95% aluminium) sheet steel for his plane. This may be seen with a discreet “Al” point out between 7 and eight o’clock. The remainder of the dial is as conventional as it may be, for one of the best. We thus have a basic “big-eye” bi-compax structure, with an outsized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The arms, made in 18k gold, are syringe-shaped, and the smaller minute hand is pear-shaped and luminous. The luminous Arabic numerals, in beige SLN, are pad-printed, and the one point out on the dial is the utilized gold Breguet emblem.

The opposite model, restricted to 250 items, is a way more shocking choice, because it doesn’t draw inspiration from a previous mannequin. The dial is manufactured from stable 925 silver (just like the gold 1955 prototype) however with a brushed silver color and an unprecedented structure for the pilot’s chronograph. And whereas it certainly seems fairly wonderful, it’s a daring selection from the model. The “Ag925” point out brings an thought of what to anticipate, with a vertically brushed silver-toned floor on that are utilized baton markers and Arabic numerals. This model can be distinguished by the presence of a tachymeter scale on the periphery, a precision seconds observe and outsized pencil arms in gold. The central seconds is blued metal and lumed. And it additionally comes with a 30-minute counter, with all tracks and markings in blue.

Below the sapphire again is a brand new in-house calibre, primarily based on the automated calibre 728 launched by Breguet in 2023, throughout the 42mm Kind XX and Kind 20. The primary distinction is clearly the transfer from an computerized winding to manually wound actions, because the black version comes with Calibre 7279 whereas the silver mannequin options Calibre 7278 (the distinction being the 15-minute vs. 30-minute counter). That stated, Breguet has saved the fashionable structure of the motion, with a 5Hz frequency (36,000vph) and a silicon hairspring, escape wheel and pallet-lever horns. As you’d anticipate, these actions are utilizing a column wheel in addition to a flyback operate (because it ought to in a Kind XX) and a vertical clutch. The facility reserve is rated at 60 hours on each actions, with a single barrel.

For the event of the celebrations, the actions are gilded in Breguet gold. These massive calibres (32mm) properly fill the watch, and Breguet makes good use of the big higher bridge with a hand-engraved ornament. It depicts the Breguet 19 plane in full flight, accompanied by the exact route taken in 1930, the European and North American landmasses’ frosted ending contrasts in opposition to the sleek Atlantic Ocean. The remainder of the motion is properly completed with snailing, bevelling and circular-graining. The column wheel is handled in black DLC.

Availabilty & Worth

The black Breguet Kind XX Chronograph 2075 is worn on a gradient black calfskin strap with an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle. It’s launched as a particular 250th anniversary version, however it isn’t restricted. It’s priced at CHF 36,500 (incl. taxes). The silver dial Breguet Kind XX Chronograph 2075 is worn on a gradient blue calfskin strap and an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle. This version is restricted to 250 individually numbered items and is priced at CHF 38,000 (incl. taxes).

As a facet notice, new CEO Gregory Kissling confirms that the Kind XX and Kind 20 assortment “will evolve when it comes to diameters, finishes and supplies.” Will this imply that smaller, 38mm hand-wound variations in metal (or titanium) might be launched at a sure level, utilizing the identical type because the black/gold mannequin above? I can solely pray for that… For extra particulars, please go to www.breguet.com.