The New 41mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding

The “Code” is rising on me. It wasn’t precisely love at first sight, to place it mildly. Nonetheless, with time and, extra importantly, some much-needed important beauty modifications, I’m warming as much as the watch that wasn’t simply hindered by a seemingly lazy dial design and considerably ridiculous identify. Final yr, I had a most nice expertise with an computerized mannequin in pink gold with a blue dial, and this yr, issues bought much more intense after I encountered the brand new 41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding in grey. Man, this metal three-hander’s bought the appears to be like. But it surely additionally has some je ne sais quois that has me considering the Code. May or not it’s an entry level into the AP universe, or do you all the time want to start out with a Royal Oak? It’s simply one of many questions I’m nonetheless looking for a solution to.

Let’s discover the watch earlier than pondering the eventual acquisition of a Code and its doable penalties. The Code has come a great distance since its 2019 debut. The three-hand Selfwinding, particularly, has undergone a exceptional metamorphosis. It went from an unpleasant duckling to one thing nearer to a swan. The varied bland dials with 4 lonesome Arabic numerals, off-balance 4:30 date window, and alarmingly skinny palms are all gone. Indexes have taken over, the date moved to three o’clock, the palms have been changed with extra voluptuous, skeletonized ones, and the dials now present a dynamic sample you can mistake for guilloché. As an alternative, it’s a stamped dial with a ripple sample. “Stamped” sounds much less luxurious than “guilloché,” however the sample designed by Yann von Kaenel, an impartial engine-turning specialist, does look wealthy and luscious. The brand new 41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding in grey is the perfect model but.

The 41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding from all angles

Final yr, I used to be passionate about 41mm pink gold Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding pictured above. Two issues stood in the best way of a doable buy, although. Reference 15210OR.OO.A348KB.01 has a lofty €35,600 value (essentially the most hindering impediment by far), and I imagine rose gold and blue, whereas enticing, should not a mix I might get pleasure from for a very long time.

There have been, nevertheless, so many components that struck a chord — the proportions, as an example. The 41 × 50 × 10.7mm case completely fits my wrist. The development of the mentioned case can also be fairly one thing. You’ll solely expertise and absolutely get pleasure from it once you deal with the watch in actual life; in photos, it simply doesn’t come throughout. The case is sort of a sandwich during which the bezel and the again maintain the octagonal mid-case. The open-worked lugs are welded towards the bezel; they contact the case again however should not welded to it. Importantly, the brushed and polished ending of the case and lugs is at a really excessive stage, and so are particulars just like the hexagonal screws for the strap.

One other component that units the Code aside is the double-curved crystal. Its form mixes a traditional convex circle on the underside and a vertical curve from 12 to six o’clock on the highest. The crystal concurrently provides an undeformed view of the dial from the highest and, at some angles, places on a present of magical distortion. However once you see a frontal image of a Code, its case’s difficult building and execution and the dynamically formed crystal go unnoticed, resulting in an virtually instantaneous misunderstanding and underestimation of the watch.

The brand new gray-dial 41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding

This Code is giving me Tetris Syndrome

Since I wore the brand new grey Code throughout the One hundred and fiftieth-anniversary celebrations earlier this yr on the Audemars Piguet HQ in Le Brassus, this watch has been on my thoughts. This metal Code is giving me a gentle type of Tetris Syndrome. This impact or syndrome, named after the well-known online game, can happen once you dedicate huge quantities of time, effort, and ideas to one thing. Because of this, the preoccupation with that factor — on this case, a watch — can result in it altering ideas, (day)desires, and different experiences circuitously linked to it. The grey Code retains popping up in my ideas at surprising moments, and I preserve questioning what would occur if I acquired one. On the similar time, nevertheless, I can’t fairly visualize myself proudly owning and sporting one.

The fabric points of the watch don’t appear to face in the best way of me manifesting the watch on my wrist. Not solely are the proportions good, however so are the colours. The grey is severe but contemporary and sporty as nicely. It’s casual, however the stamped, ripple-like sample additionally provides it a dose of formal gravitas. After which there’s the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” flange. Not solely is that this an iconic “AP” shade, however there may be additionally simply sufficient of it on the elevated flange to brighten the grey dial.

Dressed for the event

The three-hand Code is the proper on a regular basis look ahead to this point in time. The irritatingly imprecise gown codes “informal stylish” and “enterprise informal” all of a sudden make excellent sense once you have a look at this watch. It provides a traditional form with a twist in a up to date measurement and with a strap that’s the equal of hand-made sneakers. This grey rubber-coated strap, which has a 22–20mm taper and reveals a fragile texture, is sporty and chic. The strap ties the Code 11.59 collectively, so to talk. It helps match the watch with a Hawaiian, denim, button-down, or gown shirt. The pin buckle AP determined to make use of additionally deserves a point out and reward. It’s a well-made and easy-to-use different to a needlessly difficult folding clasp that offers you a false sense of luxurious.

A Code 11.59 as a substitute of a Royal Oak — is that even doable?

So, the place does my hesitation for buying the gray-dial Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding come from? Properly, first, there’s the worth. You don’t spend €26,600 on a watch on a whim. Properly, I positive don’t. There’s additionally the matter of different watches within the AP assortment. Can your first AP be one thing else than a Royal Oak? When taking a look at comparable costs, it’s slim pickings. There’s the 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.06, a watch that’s moderately shut in value. However after I spend €27,300 on a Royal Oak, a watch with iconic standing, I don’t wish to consistently really feel prefer it’s too small for my wrist. I do know that can occur as a result of I attempted it on, and it didn’t really feel proper.

Theoretical vs. sensible

Sizing and pricing as much as the 41mm Royal Oak Selfwinding ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.06 can also be not an possibility. That €28,500 watch isn’t just too large, nevertheless it additionally consistently tells you the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Further-Skinny ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02 is “The One.” It’s additionally a watch with a theoretical value of €35,900. The sensible Chrono24 value of this unavailable watch is, on common, €30K increased.

What concerning the Royal Oak Offshore Diver ref. 15720ST.OO.A009CA.01? Sure, I’ve had a comfortable spot for the “ROO” Diver ever because it got here out. However the cumbersome €30,300 dive watch can also be restricted. It’s not precisely a flexible timepiece that goes nicely with something and by no means appears to be like misplaced. And that leads me again to the brand new 41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding. With its grey dial, blue flange, and darker grey strap, this watch completely suits my wrist and wardrobe. I’m additionally more than pleased with the 257-part computerized caliber 4302 that beats contained in the case. This in-house 4Hz motion provides a 70-hour energy reserve, and it’s properly adorned, because the see-through case again reveals.

The center desires what the center desires

There you have got it. After taking a look at it from a number of views and angles, the brand new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding in grey is the proper look ahead to me. It’s bizarre to fall for a watch you went from disliking to loving and wanting, being keen to spend a small fortune on it, and ignoring an icon just like the Royal Oak. I would want extra time earlier than the metal and grey Code and I tie the knot, however the love between us is far more than an infatuation; there’s actual love right here. Say what you’ll within the feedback; I don’t care. Additionally, deep down, you realize that the watch-loving coronary heart desires what the watch-loving coronary heart desires, and there’s little, perhaps nothing, you are able to do about it.