The New and Bold Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph

Let’s get one thing out of the best way instantly: sure, it’s brightly colored, and sure, it isn’t the simplest watch to accumulate. Proper, let’s now be extra critical about Kurono Tokyo and its newest watch, the Vermilion Chronograph. What’s Kurono? Effectively, that’s the accessible model of unbiased watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a bit like so-called “second vins,” a time period generally related to Bordeaux wine to speak in regards to the extra accessible labels of the best estates. Nonetheless superb, nonetheless has a few of its nice character, not the identical price ticket although. And whereas we’re on the subject of purple colors, let’s get cracking with this new Vermilion Chronograph. 

As we’ve defined on a number of events, Kurono is the brainchild of Hajime Asaoka, some of the recognised unbiased watchmakers of Japan, who’s able to creating reasonably fascinating, but costly watches resembling tourbillons or an inverted chronograph. Kurono isn’t taking part in in the identical league, because it’s about creating elegant, barely retro watches with the person’s design language, and encasing outsourced Japan-made actions inside (Seiko and Miyota, largely). Nonetheless, Asaoka right here delivers good-looking watches with a concentrate on conventional crafts, resembling Urushi lacquer.

With its newest creation, the Vermilion Chronograph, Kurono provides a daring mannequin to its stopwatch lineup, which has already been made in a number of variants. Design-wise, the recipe is that of a vintage-inspired chronograph with compact proportions, made from polished metal with a box-shaped sapphire crystal on prime. The watch is just 38mm in diameter with a comparatively affordable 13.5mm thickness. It sits quick on the wrist too, slightly below 47mm in size. The caseback is closed, the pushers are conventional pump-style and water-resistance is proscribed to 30m. Not a chronograph for aquatic actions, however you’ve guessed that from the design.

What units this new version aside is, indubitably, the dial. That unmistakable orange-red dial, with a color named Vermilion (SHU:朱 in Japanese). This tone, in Japan’s tradition, is commonly related to the Aristocracy and is used for torii gates and samurai armours, nevertheless it’s additionally an indication of fine fortune. There’s a little bit of a narrative with this dial. As Hajime Asaoka explains, “we take a prototype dial and stick it to the south-facing window of my atelier. Half of the dial is roofed with black tape. It then stays uncovered to daylight – about 40 days in summer season and 60 days in winter. That is equal to greater than 10 years of publicity beneath regular use. On the finish of the take a look at, the black tape is eliminated, and we examine whether or not there may be any distinction in color. I had lengthy wished to create a chronograph with a vivid orange dial, however most paints (pigments) failed this take a look at. Solely two pigments handed: ‘selenium purple’ and ‘vermilion.’ These had been the vivid orange colors I had lastly discovered that might not fade.”

The remainder of the dial is traditional for Kurono, with sunken black sub-counters, utilized polished pearls as hour markers and domed, polished fingers. There’s a date window at 6 o’clock, which we may definitely see eliminated. The distinction between the orange-red color and the black sub-dial is robust, and the Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph absolutely has a robust character. Inside, no surprises. The watch is powered by Seiko NE86 (often known as 8R46 when utilized by Seiko). It’s a extra superior motion than what you’d count on, because it depends on a column wheel and vertical clutch structure, and is an built-in automated motion. It beats at 4Hz and shops about 45h of energy reserve. The watch is worn on a discreet black leather-based strap.

Availability & value

No Kurono watch is straightforward to accumulate, however the Vermilion Chronograph is even more durable to get, being a small batch launch accessible solely at Kurono salons in Aoyama (a district of Tokyo) and in Shanghai, China. No on-line ordering will likely be potential, and just one watch may be bought at a time, from August twenty second, 2025. Additionally it is mentioned to be a restricted manufacturing run (no numbers talked about) that won’t be repeated.

The Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph is priced at JPY 598,950 (incl. taxes) or RMB 29,300 (incl. taxes), about EUR 3,470 on the time of publication. For extra particulars, please go to kuronotokyo.com.