The New Platinum Editions of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 SPC

In 2015, one of many nice names in 18^th-century watchmaking was resurrected by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807), the Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his marine chronometers, was granted a second lease of life. Decided to perpetuate the legacy and chronometric credentials of F. Berthoud’s previous glories in up to date watchmaking language, Scheufele’s area of interest model has been delighting connoisseurs for a decade. Celebrating its tenth anniversary, Ferdinand Berthoud presents a restricted sequence of its Chronomètre FB3 reference in platinum with salmon-pink or black PVD-coated actions and an non-compulsory sprinkling of diamonds.

Launched in 2022, essentially the most distinctive characteristic of the FB3 is its uncommon cylindrical stability spring. Utilized in marine chronometers and inside a 1793 decimal pocket watch made by Ferdinand Berthoud’s nephew, Louis Berthoud, one of many benefits of a cylindrical spring, defined intimately right here, is that it develops concentrically, decreasing friction on pivots. Terribly tough to craft and regulate to chronometric requirements, the FB3 spent three years within the R&D lab.

Having appeared in gold and titanium, the anniversary editions are available in 42.3mm platinum instances with a thickness of 9.43mm. Over 30 hours had been required to machine and end the 57-part case, and extra to shine this dense but extremely malleable steel. Like earlier editions, the lugs are screwed to the case and the big 8.5mm crown is engraved with a crisscross sample. A pronounced domed sapphire crystal protects the dial; there’s a crystal pane on the caseback and an exquisite rectangular porthole on the left case flank to benefit from the respiratory cylindrical stability spring.

One of many new FB3 fashions has a black PVD-treated and sandblasted motion and white gold fingers; the second has a sandblasted salmon-pink motion and blue CVD-treated gold fingers. Each references will be ordered with a sprinkling of diamonds: 48 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, 10 on the pin buckle and 18 on the crown.

With its dynamic 3D structure and mainplate positioned on the coronary heart of the motion, the COSC chronometer-certified calibre FB-SPC will be admired from the entrance, again and aspect. The complete regulating organ is organized vertically on the left aspect of the dial, every ingredient fastened by a separate bridge for wonderful changes.

On the prime is the stability bridge and a spectacular cylindrical stability spring beating in mid-air, the anchor bridge within the center and the escapement wheel bridge on the backside. Held in place by a outstanding arched bridge at midday, just like the one on Berthoud’s decimal pocket watch, is the big barrel with a 72-hour energy reserve. To keep away from overwinding the mainspring, the barrel has a slipping system.

A rounded and raised peripheral ring for minutes and hours is indicated by the openworked hour and minute fingers. Separate sandblasted bridges assist the facility reserve indicator at 2 o’clock, the central hour and minute fingers, the hand similar to the small seconds indicator, and the arced bridge at midday for the barrel. The view from the reverse reveals a jigsaw composition of 10 matte sandblasted bridges with a properly of sunshine providing an ideal view of the cylindrical hairspring. As you’ll count on, the finishings are superlative and decidedly up to date.

Though the alligator strap of the FB3 is normally accompanied by a pin buckle, there’s a new 18mm folding clasp with a security catch and a fine-adjustment mechanism permitting for +/- 3mm modifications. It’s obtainable on request in 18k rose or white gold.

The 2 non-set references are restricted editions of 20 items every and retail for CHF 158,000 (incl. VAT) with the platinum pin buckle; the diamond-set fashions are restricted to 5 items and retail for CHF 220,000 (incl. VAT) with the diamond-set platinum pin buckle. Extra info at ferdinandberthoud.ch.