The new Schwarz Etienne Geometry Black

As we’ll see in just a few days in an interview now we have achieved with the just lately appointed director of Schwarz Etienne, Florian Brossart, the impartial watchmaker is about to open a brand new chapter in its historical past, with revamped collections and nice ambitions to fulfill with the unbelievable capacities of this producer, one of many very uncommon manufacturers able to making its personal stability wheels and hairsprings in-house. However earlier than speaking concerning the future, we have to look at present, and it’s shiny, with the launch of a brand new member within the authentic, putting Geometry sequence, with its deconstructed dial now accessible in black. 

Earlier than deciding to work with exterior designers and craftsmen, Schwarz Etienne showcased its watchmaking expertise with a moderately traditional watch named the Roma Petite Seconde. Whereas there was no denying the eye to element within the motion, with its high quality ornament, interesting finger bridges for the gear practice, a micro-rotor arcitecture, the general design was missing persona, attraction and distinctiveness. A high quality watch that was not putting sufficient to persuade in a moderately aggressive market of impartial watchmakers. Issues modified when Schwarz Etienne determined to make use of this vessel as a base for creativity, first by inviting Kari Voutilainen on the desk, including a hand-guilloché dial by Comblémine but in addition engine-turned ornament on the motion’s bridges, creating the Roma Synergy sequence – accessible in sand gray or blue, in Cherry Pink, and collaborative fashions in salmon or inexperienced. And whereas technically near a Roma mannequin, these Voutilainen-infused watches have been much more interesting visually.

Subsequent in line, once more including some pizzazz to the visible facet, was the Schwarz Etienne Geometry, this time inviting designer Eric Giroud to rework the dial, and dialmaker Metalem to create a deconstructed hand-guilloché dial. First launched in silver and salmon, adopted by a daring cherry crimson version, the Geometry comes again this 12 months in a extra conventional, monochromatic mannequin with a black dial and a few enhancements concerning the ornament of the motion.

The bottom of the watch is sourced from the traditional assortment, with an current, moderately elegant case in chrome steel measuring 39mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness. The case is totally polished and options stepped lugs. It’s honest to say that it’s not probably the most putting case design round, however in a means, it’s a constructive level… The focus turning into the dial. And there’s loads happening this dial. The case wears properly on the wrist and options sapphire crystals on each side, with a good water-resistance of fifty metres.

The dial is a joint creation between Schwarz Etienne, designer Giroud and dialmaker Metalem. Utilizing a strong 18k gold base and traditional hand-guilloché approach, the dial is geometrically break up into 4 segments, every quadrant housing a sequence of concentric snailed arcs, fan-like pleats, Clous de Paris motifs and flat sandblasted areas. The medley of alternating patterns, with 3D ridges that rise and fall, produces a mesmerising, extremely kinetic impact. Take, for instance, the flat sandblasted minutes observe with silver markers and comply with its non-linear course throughout the 4 segments – or the Clous de Paris motif that solely seems in three segments and the altering dimension and peak of the guilloché patterns that add a lot depth to the dial. It’s a fantastically complicated dial that, for no matter motive, is each taking part in together with your thoughts and but stays straightforward to learn.

For the event of this new restricted run, the Schwarz Etienne Geometry opts for a traditional and monochromatic dial in matte black. No extra contrasting minutes observe and small seconds sub-counter, the whole lot is right here tone-on-tone, aside from the silver-toned markers, the brand and the rhodium-treated Lancine-style hour and minute fingers – that are polished and faceted, making them straightforward to learn even when there’s not lume.

On the coronary heart of the Schwarz Etienne Geometry Black is similar base motion as earlier than – the in-house calibre ASE 200.02 – however right here in a brand new visible expression. The identical motion because the Roma Synergy sequence, this automated motion is totally manufactured internally, all the way down to its regulating organ and hairspring. It’s wound by a micro-rotor and contains a highly effective mainspring providing a beneficiant 86-hour energy reserve. In comparison with the earlier version of the Geometry, the ornament has been up to date to be much more per the dial. Certainly, the sandblasted bridges are right here black PVD coated, however the polished bevels are contrasting with a rhodium plating – providing an ideal interaction of colors. The micro-rotor opts for a similar ornament and the ratchet wheel is completed with snailed and polished surfaces.

Worn on an aged black leather-based strap with gray stitches, closed by a metal folding clasp, this new and extra trendy Schwarz Etienne Geometry Black is a restricted version of 100 items, priced at CHF 23,800. For extra particulars, please go to schwarz-etienne.ch.