The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm

Regardless of being an skilled watchmaker in his 50s, Nicolas Delaloye stays one of many discreet names within the unbiased watchmaking scene. However there are good causes for that. This AHCI member simply regained his independence and re-started making watches a couple of months in the past, after a protracted interval serving as a watchmaker-restorer on the Patek Philippe Museum – objectively, not the worst of experiences. Earlier than that, in his lengthy profession, Delaloye had already produced a couple of watches as an unbiased watchmaker. At present, after years of working for others, the fervour to create beneath his personal identify has been reignited, marking each a return to this earlier exercise and a private rebirth, inspiring the identify Renaissance… or, to be exact, the Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm. 

Nicolas Delaloye is an skilled watchmaker who has been working independently since 2024. After graduating from the Geneva Watchmaking Faculty in 1991, he labored for Patek Philippe and different manufacturers. In 2000, he left De Witt and began to work by himself, first assembling watches for different manufacturers (or complication motion producers) after which creating his personal watches with the calibre ND01, a traditional time-only watch with a 3-day energy reserve hand-wound motion. His manufacturing slowly elevated however remained very confidential till the subprime disaster compelled him to focus totally on assembling actions for others once more. In 2016, he joined the Patek Philippe Museum to work on restoration for the venerable establishment. However in 2024, after years of working for others, the fervour got here again, marking each a return to this earlier exercise and a private rebirth, inspiring the identify of his newest creation, Renaissance.

The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm watch is a traditional time-only watch with an enamel dial. A modernised model of his first mannequin, it makes use of the identical motion (with some updates), and it encapsulates Delaloye’s philosophy… It’s a easy, pure, but refined gown watch, the place understated magnificence is elevated by meticulous craftsmanship and an evident consideration to element. Its case is available in a flexible 39mm diameter versus 41mm for earlier fashions (uncommon 37mm variations additionally existed). It’s made from tantalum, one of many hardest metals utilized in watchmaking, praised for its weight and darkish grey-blue color. If it is a reasonably surprising alternative, it’s an fascinating one that can seduce aficionados with its distinctive color and heft.

The enamel dial is offered in ivory or black, both with Roman or Breguet Arabic numerals. Its structure is balanced with a well-proportioned small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The fingers, slender but sculpted, are blued or polished, relying on the dial color. Their sharp profile ensures nice legibility, whereas the domed polished end is great.

Turning the watch over, the exhibition caseback brings the hand-wound calibre ND01 into full view. If the place to begin for this lovely motion is the gear practice of the AS1130 (a classic German-made motion from Anton Schimdt), the handwork carried out by Delaloye is seen all through. The superbly formed German silver bridges characteristic giant, meticulously completed chamfers and Côtes de Genève. 4 of the jewels are pressed in chatons held in place by three screws. The swan-neck regulator – all the time one thing that we like to see in traditional actions – is black polished. The massive steadiness wheel has screws, a flat hairspring and beats at a sluggish charge of 18,000 vibrations/hour. The barrel delivers 3 days of energy reserve, and its ratchet options wolf’s enamel. The super-thin click on spring is one other good contact.

The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance comes on a material and nubuck (black, beige or mild blue) strap with tone-on-tone or purple stitching. The watch retails for CHF 40,000, which appears very reasonable for this elegant, unique handmade watch. The 24 watches of the restricted version had been nearly offered out on the time of publishing this text. 

All in all, the Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm is a real collector’s look ahead to these within the know, individuals who will respect the eye to element with out the necessity for bling… In brief, one thing that we love right here at MONOCHROME. For extra info, please go to www.delaloyegeneve.ch.