The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates

Of all the brand new releases from Tudor at this yr’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now offered in a placing all-burgundy design, with each the dial and bezel dressed within the deep pink tone. Whereas the dial color holds historic significance, the true game-changer lies beneath the floor: the introduction of the METAS-certified chronometer Calibre MT5400-U. Mix that with a number of extra delicate, under-the-radar upgrades, and also you’ve received greater than only a fairly face… a narrative price telling. However earlier than we dive into our hands-on impressions, let’s rewind and revisit the origins of the Black Bay 58.

Revisiting the Black Bay 58

The Tudor Black Bay line was launched in 2012 alongside the Pelagos. From the beginning, the Black Bay redefined Tudor’s id, injecting contemporary vitality, trendy specs, and classic appeal into the model and in the end placing Tudor again on the map. It was pitched as a contemporary-sized diver with a powerful historic spine, bridging the hole between heritage and trendy efficiency.

Then, in 2018, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (the title later modified to Black Bay 58) joined the lineup. However this wasn’t simply one other riff on the identical theme. The Fifty-Eight was a extra deliberate nod to Tudor’s iconic Massive Crown Submariner from 1958 – particularly the reference 7924. It introduced the design nearer to its roots with a smaller, slimmer case that delivered a extra devoted vintage-inspired aesthetic.

Sized at 39mm (in comparison with the 41mm of the usual Black Bay) and simply 11.9mm thick, down from the unique’s hefty 15mm, the unique Black Bay 58 provided a compact, much less cumbersome presence on the wrist. The lug width was trimmed to 20mm, and whereas the design stayed true to the Black Bay DNA, touches just like the outsized crown adorned with the classic Tudor rose added to its nostalgic enchantment. Solely the crown tube remained uncoated in plain metal, staying true to the stripped-down simplicity of the unique.

Tudor additionally developed a extra compact manufacture motion to match this downsized case – the Calibre MT5402 – boasting the identical specs as its bigger sibling (70h energy reserve and silicon hairspring, to call a number of) however tailor-made for the Fifty-Eight’s smaller dimensions.

Since its debut, the Black Bay 58 line has expanded to incorporate varied dial and bezel colors and bronze, silver, gold and even a unbelievable GMT choice. Burgundy has all the time been a part of the Tudor palette – the 2012 Black Bay debuted with the burgundy bezel – however till 2025, by no means on the dial itself. There may be an all-burgundy Submariner 7900 prototype in Tudor archives that by no means made it to manufacturing however is alleged to be the one which impressed the burgundy bezel within the first place and the Black Bay line, too.

The brand new Black Bay 58 Burgundy

With this Black Bay 58 Burgundy, the temper modifications completely. The result’s a contemporary, thrilling twist on a contemporary basic. Right here’s what we thought after spending a while with it hands-on. Initially, we’ve got to think about this evolution of the Black Bay 58 as the identical recipe utilized by Tudor when revamping the basic Black Bay in 2023 with a burgundy bezel and in 2024 with the Monochrome version (no, we weren’t concerned…). Minimal touches to make the watch even higher, much more timeless, much more highly effective.

The brand new Tudor Black Bay 58 wears exceptionally properly on the wrist, because of its well-balanced 39mm case and quick, curved lugs, and paired with the riveted-style stainless-steel bracelet it provides consolation and elegance. This newest model is barely slimmer, measuring 11.7mm thick (in comparison with the 11.9mm thickness of reference M7930). It may not present, however the entire case has been reasonably redesigned, even when it retains the look we recognize on this watch. 

The polished and satin-finished surfaces and properly executed chamfered lugs deliver a well-known aesthetic, reinforcing the model’s constant design language. The unidirectional bezel incorporates a burgundy anodised aluminium insert and now incorporates the sharper, extra outlined knurling beforehand launched to the basic Black Bay 41 line – a welcome refinement that improves grip and ease of rotation.

One other delicate however appreciated replace is the redesigned screw-down crown. The seen crown tube and additional bulge from earlier fashions have been eradicated, permitting the crown – nonetheless adorned with the Tudor rose brand – to sit down nearer to the polished caseband. It additionally options up to date fluting, according to the latest design evolution of the Black Bay 41 assortment.

Beneath the domed sapphire crystal lies a domed, satin-brushed burgundy dial with silver-toned markings and utilized indices crammed with luminescent materials – a well-known and cohesive collection look that enhances the watch’s total aesthetic. The signature Tremendous-LumiNova-treated snowflake fingers stay, however the central seconds hand now incorporates a lollipop design, changing the standard rhomboid form with a spherical luminous tip. If reminiscence serves, the one Black Bay mannequin to retain this design inside the Grasp Chronometer vary is the Black Bay Ceramic 41, launched a number of years in the past.

The dial mentions the Grasp Chronometer standing with a “200m:660ft Grasp Chronometer” inscription above the 6 o’clock. Not like the three strains of textual content on earlier COSC-certified fashions, this new structure is diminished to simply two strains, leading to a extra spacious and harmonious dial.

The brand new full-burgundy Tudor Black Bay 58 is powered by the self-winding manufacture Calibre MT5400-U made by Kenissi, with 65 hours of energy reserve and working at 28,800 vibrations/hour. To realize the METAS Grasp Chronometer certification, the motion should first be COSC-certified. As soon as cased, it undergoes further testing for precision throughout six positions, at two totally different temperatures, and at two ranges of energy reserve. It additionally should reveal resistance to magnetic fields as much as 15,000 gauss. The MT5400-U incorporates a non-magnetic silicon stability spring – identical to the usual COSC-certified MT5400 – it features a stop-seconds operate for exact time setting, is provided with a variable inertia stability and has a transversal stability bridge.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 we skilled was fitted with a 3-link “rivet-style” stainless-steel bracelet with the sharp Tudor protect on the flip-lock, principally satin completed. Different choices embrace a 5-link bracelet or rubber strap, all of which include a TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, which permits for micro-adjustment and hassle-free match.

This new Black Bay 58 is as soon as once more displaying Tudor’s willingness to embrace daring color decisions, however the “Burgundy” isn’t just a visible standout – it attracts a delicate connection to the historic 7900 prototype, bridging previous and current in a method that makes this mannequin really feel particular. The improve to a METAS-certified motion brings enhanced precision and efficiency, whereas the refined design evolution provides considerate touches. The result’s a watch that appears and feels distinctive and can also be laborious to half with.

Costs for the Black Bay 58 Burgundy Grasp Chronometer are EUR 4,510 and EUR 4,620 for the 3-link and 5-link metal bracelet references, respectively, and EUR 4,290 with a rubber strap. It’s accessible now from the model’s boutiques and retailers. For extra particulars, please go to www.tudorwatch.com.