Take a look at our newest merchandise
This yr was the primary time I traveled to Watches and Wonders (W&W) in Geneva with extra skepticism than anticipation. A lot was written in regards to the coming disaster within the watch trade, and the Morgan Stanley-Watch Charts, 1st Quarter 2025 Report highlighted that the secondary market value contraction continues (however on the lowest quarterly price since 2nd Quarter 2022).
Given the glum information, I anticipated that producers, manufacturers, inventive makers, and independents to carry again in 2025. I used to be not anticipating to see a lot spectacular horology this yr.
Nonetheless, I used to be flawed: Watches and Wonders 2025 featured nice designs, problems, decorations, and new innovations. Rolex even unveiled their Dynapulse pure escapement in a wristwatch produced in excessive numbers: the brand new Land-Dweller
Beneath are my private highlights from the honest, lots of which I imagine will retain their significance far past this yr.
Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts 2025 Desk Clock Reference 27000M-001
The Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts assortment simply retains getting higher Considered one of my favorites this yr was the desk clock reference 27000M-001. It’s impressed by the timepiece commissioned by James Ward Packard in 1923 (on show within the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva).
Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts 2025 Desk Clock Reference 27000M-001
This perpetual calendar desk clock signifies the moon phases, week quantity, energy reserve, day, month, and energy reserve. Patek Philippe makes use of the caliber 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE, a manually wound motion, for this tremendous clock.
As a part of the Uncommon Handcrafts assortment, the clock case is embellished with American walnut veneer and inexperienced flinqué oven fired enamel with guilloché on 925 sterling silver and gold-plated silver appliques.
Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts 2025 Desk Clock Reference 27000M-001
The historic timepiece made for James Ward Packard (1923) is a part of the everlasting exhibition within the Patek Philippe museum, Geneva, Switzerland. A 3rd desk clock of this kind was offered for 9.500.000 CHF at public sale on November, 6, 2021.
For extra data, please go to www.patek.com/en/assortment/rare-handcrafts
A. Lange & Söhne 1815, 34 mm Case Dimension, the seventy fifth A. Lange & Söhne Inhouse Caliber
Though there have been some extraordinarily difficult, but additionally fairly massive watches from A. Lange & Söhne from Glashütte, Germany on present this yr, probably the most wearable, lovely and chic look ahead to my style was and is the wristwatch 1815 in a 34 mm case. I can’t think about some other mannequin from this producer being extra elegant, lovely, refined and unobtrusive.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm with blue dial (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
This small 1815 with the darkish blue dial and purple gold case was one of the lovely time solely watches on the Palexpo 2025. As soon as once more, A. Lange & Söhne has developed its personal motion, the caliber L152.1, for this small and exquisite watch from the 1815 assortment, which is the seventy fifth motion from Lange.
For extra data, please go to www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/1815/1815-in-750-pink-gold-220-037
Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse Minute Repeater
Yearly, on 2nd of December, Parmigiani Fleurier presents an exceptionally valuable instance of an intricate and inventive watch embellished with the absolute best handcrafts: engraving, guilloché, enameling. This time, a wristwatch, the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse Minute Repeater, was introduced, of which a complete of three items have been produced.
Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse Minute Repeater
The murals is crafted by three golden fingers grasp artisans: Yann von Kaenel for the guilloché, Eddy Jaquet for the engravings, and Vanessa Lecci for the enameling.
This extraordinary watch is made in three items with the enamel colours Daybreak Rose (purple), Midnight Fjord (blue) and Sage Inexperienced (inexperienced).
What an overload of expertise and perfection. The most effective of the most effective. I can´t wait to see the 2025 version due later in December.
Additional studying: https://quillandpad.com/2024/12/03/new-release-parmigiani-larmoriale-repetition-mysterieuse-a-minute-repeater-striking-cathedral-gongs-no-dial-side-indications-and-packed-with-arts-and-crafts/
For extra data, please go to www.parmigiani.com/en/the-house/experience/pieces-of-exception/armoriale-repetition-mysterieuse/
Raul Pages RP2 White Agate
The items made by Raul Pages are excellent, the design is so properly balanced, the actions of the (RP1 and) RP2 are so properly constructed, both Pages makes use of a counter-balanced lever escapement (RP2) or a pivoted detent escapement (RP1) – they’re lovely and uncommon.
Raúl Pagès RP2 White Agate
Even rarer is the dial of his new RP2 – it’s manufactured from agate stone in white – merely excellent and an execution, you don’t see fairly often. To not neglect: Raul Pages was the inaugural winner of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize 2023-2024.
Additional studying: New Launch: Raúl Pagès RP2 – White Agate follows Soberly Onyx. Unbiased Watchmaking at its Finest!
For extra data, please go to https://pageswatches.com/
Dann Phimphrachanh Prototype Wristwatch
You meet the nicest folks and you discover probably the most wonderful creations on the AHCI within the L´Ice Bergues within the coronary heart of Geneva. This yr, I first noticed the prototype watch from the watchmaker Dann Phimphrachanh from Yverdon.
Dann Phimphrachanh prototype wristwatch (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
This was the watch I least anticipated to see. I first turned conscious of the watch and Dann throughout a dialog within the L’ice Bergues AHCI exhibition, and since then it has been troublesome to neglect this distinctive prototype from this younger watchmaker. It has a 39.5 mm stainless-steel case and is 9.8 mm excessive.
Dann Phimphrachanh Prototype wristwatch motion facet (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
The motion beats at a convention 2.5 Hz/10,00 bph, and shows the hours, minutes and seconds leaping seconds “vive”, a sort of deadbeat seconds). Elements of the motion are manufactured from German silver and the floor is completed as corindon-blasted frosted plates.
The prototype of this watch is sort of completely handmade.
For extra data, please go to www.instagram.com/dann.phimphrachanh/?hl=en
Kallinich Claeys Restricted Version Einser Hongkong Version
”The Swiss make the world´s greatest watches. So do the Germans” This was as soon as A. Lange & Söhne’s slogan a very long time in the past – and in my view it’s nonetheless true in the present day. And the good watches are additionally made by the good guys.
Kallinich Claeys Einser Hong Kong version
With each new unbiased small workshop that emerges within the Glashütte area, I see fabulous mechanical watches being crafted. For my part, that is very true for the watch “Einser” by Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys from Glashütte. Each labored collectively for a while at A. Lange & Söhne. I notably just like the very calm and elegantly designed dial of the watch with heart seconds, the mannequin “Einser”, now within the Hong Kong version.
Motion of the Kallinich Claeys Einser Hong Kong version.
It has a guilloché dial and great engravings on the bridges of the motion plus the attribute energy reserve indication window on the facet of the watch case. This watch is filled with wonderful particulars and the hand ending is sensational.
For extra data, please go to www.kallinichclaeys.com/einser-hongkong-edition
Matthias Naeschke High-quality Clocks Desk Clock NT 14
I really like massive dimension clocks and I at all times will. This yr, Sebastian Naeschke has constructed and introduced a brand new desk clock with an uncommon calendar mechanism for us. The clock named NT 14 desk clock shows the time, date, month and day of the week with out utilizing many separate shows.
Matthias Naeschke High-quality Clocks Desk Clock NT 14 (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
The day of the week seems in a small window above the 6 o’clock place, the month is displayed from the middle of the clock utilizing the 12 hour markers, and the date from 1 to 31 is displayed with its personal gold hand as much as place 31 on the minute scale (earlier than this hand then jumps again to place 1 on the primary day of a brand new month).
This mechanism is new and engaging – and I reckon it will value an actual fortune constructed right into a wristwatch. This lovely clock from Naeschke wonderful clocks as soon as once more confirms my private fascination for clocks.
For extra data, please visit https://matthias-naeschke.de/
Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon Imperial Distinctive Pocket Watch
The Villa Sarasin ((beside Palexpo) exhibited a variety of watches and watchmakers this yr as the placement of the “Time to Watches”. Amongst them the AHCI member Antoine Preziuso and his spouse and household have proven many watches from their assortment. Primarily wristwatches and tourbillons.
Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon Imperial Distinctive Pocket Watch (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
However to my greatest shock and pleasure the Preziusos even have proven the pocket watch “Tourbillon Imperial” – a novel piece as a real household mission in the most effective sense. The Preziusos have labored on totally different facets of this royal, bombastic, heavy pocket watch.
And by the best way: the case of this pocket watch is made by Jean Pierre Hagmann (who handed away this yr). Preziuso and Hagmann labored collectively a few years and many years.
For extra data, please visit https://antoine-preziuso.com/site2018/
Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts 2025 Dome Desk Clock ‘Rade de Geneve’
In the event you really feel that wooden marquetry on a watch or as a watch dial, is a uncommon encounter – than: curved wooden marquetry on a dome or desk clock is finally uncommon. I’ve by no means seen this earlier than and Patek Philippe has by no means made this earlier than within the uncommon handcrafts assortment.
Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts 2025 Dome Desk Clock Rade de Geneve (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
The Rade de Geneve is the primary ever dome clock adorned with wooden marquetry. The clock is a novel piece displaying the harbor of Geneva and the Jet d´eau. This uncommon handcraft piece is comprised of greater than 1.900 veneer components and 200 tiny inlays.
Patek Philippe Uncommon Handcrafts 2025 Dome Desk Clock Rade de Geneve (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
For the primary time the picket inlay components must be curved or domed with the assistance of scorching steam for the case of the clock. The Patek Philippe dome clocks run with the Caliber 17´´´ PEND that are mechanical actions rewound by an electrical motor. I love wooden marquetry in any type, any dimension, any motif, however – this dome clock is greater than particular – Mamma Mia!.
For extra data, please go to https://www.patek.com/en/assortment/rare-handcrafts
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour De L´Ile Anniversary Items
Vacheron Constantin has each a wealthy historical past within the metropolis of Geneva and in uncommon and exquisite handcrafts. This yr the corporate exhibits three excellent items of Metiers D´Artwork – the Tribute to the Tour De L´Ile watches and a tribute to Geneva: As one piece of engraving artwork and as two items displaying lovely guilloche and miniature enameling.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour De L´Ile Anniversary watch (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
All three wristwatches are devoted to the well-known Tower in Geneva down by the Rhone River, the Tour De L´Ile. The watches are geared up with the caliber 2460 and all are made as three single distinctive items to rejoice the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour De L´Ile Anniversary watch (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
Amongst so many insignificant watches on the Watches & Wonders 2025 the three Les Cabinotiers Tribute items are completely wonderful.
For extra data, please go to www.vacheron-constantin.com/ww/en/watches/novelties/cabinotiers-tour-de-l-ile.html
Louis Moinet 1816 Tribute to the World´s First Chronograph
Typically I go by items that shock me. Immediately I discover a watch that I didn’t count on to see. My surprising second was the Louis Moinet Tribute Chronograph 1816.
Louis Moinet 1816 Tribute to the World´s first chronograph (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
It’s mentioned that the watchmaker Louis Moinet was the inventor of the primary chronograph along with his Compteur de Tierces (the tremendous excessive frequency begin – cease – reset thirds timer chronograph with 216.000 A/h) from 1816.
The Louis Moinet ‘Compteur de Tierces’, the world’s first chronograph (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
I’ve seen and admired the historic chronograph that Louis Moinet and its proprietor Jean-Marie Schaller, purchased at public sale..
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Louis Moinet confirmed a wristwatch made below the inspiration of the historic chronograph manufactured from titanium with a wonderful manual-winding outdated type column wheel chronograph motion.
To style this watch appears to be like actually particular – each from the dial facet and from the motion facet.
For extra data, please go to https://louismoinet.com/
Historic Pocket Watch 1928 Jaeger LeCoultre, Caliber 17 (historic piece, not on the market)
Jaeger LeCoultre introduced some non-public assortment items to Palexpo to point out their wonderful historical past and custom. Amongst them a wonderful skeleton pocket watch with an open labored dial with the caliber 17 (precise it’s the caliber 17JSMCCRVO) inside – a sophisticated gold Lépine pocket watch displaying perpetual calendar, minute repeater, chronograph, indicating the hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, intercalary year and moon phases.
Jaeger LeCoultre Caliber 17, historic pocket watch from 1928 (picture courtesy Thomas Brechtel)
The great thing about this piece continues within the case ornament and the handcrafts that went into the watchcase. It’s engraved and full of blue translucent enamel. This pocket watch will not be on the market, however many parts of this piece went into the fashionable restricted version watches of Jaeger LeCoultre for his or her perpetual calendar wristwatches.
For extra data, please go to www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/
Closing Ideas:
I don’t really feel that we’ve seen numerous restraint and modesty this spring 2025. Somewhat, I’ve the impression that we’ve seen and can proceed to see many unbelievable and exceptionally costly watches this yr, watches which were developed within the extraordinarily profitable years 2021, 2022, and 2023, and which are actually able to be proven – at a time when demand is noticeably declining throughout the board.
However maybe that is additionally a positive time to purchase a watch, a metiers d´artwork piece, otherwise you may even think about a clock.
You may also get pleasure from:
Presenting the Black Tulip by Annelinde Dunselman: New Unbiased Watchmaker, New Watch
Morgan Stanley-WatchCharts 1st Quarter 2025: Value Contraction Continues however on the Lowest Quarterly Price since 2Q22
New Launch: Raúl Pagès RP2; –White Agate follows Soberly Onyx. Unbiased Watchmaking at its Finest!
