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Jamie Weiss
It’s truthful to say that quite a lot of watch fanatics have an actual love/hate relationship with Tudor (in addition to its greater sibling Rolex). On the one hand, they criticise each these manufacturers for being extraordinarily conservative relating to introducing new merchandise, bemoaning the truth that “all they do” is launch completely different dial colors or delicate tweaks to present watches, and folks lose their minds about it… And but will go on to lose their minds over a brand new dial! Working example: the brand new white dial Black Bay Professional that was launched at Watches and Wonders this yr. My feeling on the bottom is that extra folks have been hyped about this new dial color than precise new fashions from Tudor, just like the Pelagos Extremely. Watch followers are a fickle lot, however I digress…
I really feel barely smug that I predicted that Tudor would certainly launch a Black Bay Professional with a white dial this yr. I used to be additionally bang-on predicting that this watch would have some delicate variations from the unique black-dialled Black Bay Professional that got here out in 2022, of which I’m a really proud proprietor. As a result of it’s value making that time: this new BB Professional variant is greater than only a mere palette swap, even whether it is an train in small adjustments. However what are they, and the way do these two Tudors stack up towards one another?
Widespread floor

To be completely clear, the 2 Black Bay Professional variants are functionally equivalent. They share the identical case, identical motion, identical energy reserve and identical strap choices. For individuals who want a refresher, it measures up at 39mm in diameter and a controversial 14.6mm tall; is powered by the in-house (however Kenissi-produced), COSC-certified, MT5652 true GMT motion with a 70-hour energy reserve; and comes with three selections of wrist fastener: a jacquard NATO strap, a hybrid leather-based/rubber strap, and a faux-riveted bracelet with a T-Match clasp.


It’s attention-grabbing, really, that Tudor didn’t resolve to maneuver to pursuing Grasp Chronometer certification for the BB Professional with the introduction of the Polar when evidently going ahead, that’s the certification they’re going to pursue for all of their watches. I imply, if the Polar was METAS-certified whereas the OG BB Professional was ‘simply’ COSC, that may dissuade shoppers from choosing the latter, aesthetic concerns apart… Nonetheless, it might’ve been good to see the BB Professional obtain that improve.


That mentioned, and I do know that is completely anecdotal, however my BB Professional retains higher time than mainly every other watch I’ve ever owned. Once we’re bored within the Melbourne Discovery Studio, we typically put our private watches by means of a timegrapher to see who has essentially the most correct watch, and I’m happy to say that each time we’ve executed that, my BB Professional has measured a mighty -0.1 seconds/day in a number of completely different positions on a number of completely different events. And I don’t child my watch or something; fairly the other. Perhaps I simply lucked out with a really well-adjusted instance, however that is all to say that COSC-certified chronometers will be lots correct.
The place every stands aside


The Black Bay Professional’s design is a little bit of a pastiche. The unique black-dialled mannequin is a tribute to the unique Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which was first launched in 1971 and is nicknamed each the “Freccione” (or “Massive Arrow”) in addition to, confusingly, the “Steve McQueen”, even if the well-known actor by no means publicly wore this watch. The ref. 1655 featured a comparatively flat mounted metal bezel, plus a unique-for-Rolex dial and handset configuration with a definite, outsized orange GMT hand.


The Black Bay Professional takes a few of the design cues from the ref. 1655 and melds them with the overall aesthetic of the Tudor Black Bay. It ditches the crown guard and Cyclops lens whereas utilising Tudor’s signature snowflake palms and round lume plots. As compared, the brand new Black Bay Professional Polar extra carefully resembles the Explorer II design launched with the ref. 16550 (produced from 1985 to 1988) and popularised by the ref. 16570 (1989 – 2010). That is the design mostly related to the Explorer II immediately, specifically a white dial with crammed lume plots.
Actually, that is likely one of the main variations between the BB Professional launch mannequin and the Polar: the OG makes use of blocks of luminous ceramic for its indices, whereas the Polar makes use of typical, lume-filled plots. Moreover, the OG’s indices, palms and date window characteristic an off-white, aged look, whereas the Polar goes for a cleaner sheer white. One other distinction: the OG has a yellow GMT hand (evocative of the discontinued Tudor North Flag), and the Polar has an orange GMT hand, which, counterintuitively, is extra devoted to the ref. 1655 and the present Explorer II mannequin, the ref. 226570. The OG additionally highlights its water resistance score in yellow textual content, and the Polar doesn’t spotlight it in any respect.
The largest distinction between the 2 dials is textural. The place the OG BB Professional has a matte end, the Polar has a relatively pronounced opaline impact that’s actually fairly sparkly – much more than the Black Bay GMT’s dial, though that might simply be me. It’s very interesting, however it’s additionally a departure from the aesthetic of the extant Rolex Explorer II Polar, which is simply shiny white.
The decision, and my choose
You may suppose this can be a lot of waffle for only a new dial color, however I hope I’ve satisfied you that the brand new Black Bay Polar is greater than only a yang to the unique’s yin. Each fashions pay homage to completely different eras of the Rolex Explorer II, with the OG being way more of a retro revival, and the Polar presenting as a way more modern-looking watch. As for which one I’d choose? Nicely, I already personal the unique black dial mannequin, but when the Polar was out there in 2022 once I purchased my BB Professional, I might need ended up with the white. It’s a bit extra placing than the black – though I believe the black is barely technically extra attention-grabbing due to its block ceramic lume indices. Or possibly that’s only a cope.


Truly, in some methods, the black dial BB Professional’s largest rival throughout the Tudor vary is the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time, which aesthetically hits a few of those self same faux-retro notes with its matte black dial and off-white indices however boasts a titanium case, a METAS-certified model of the identical motion and a rotatable GMT bezel. Sure, it’s fairly a special watch, however I believe it’s a reasonably compelling rival – whereas the BB Professional Polar stands aside as a extra distinctive providing. Meals for thought.
Tudor Black Bay Professional pricing and availability
The Tudor Black Bay Professional, with both a white or black dial, is accessible now from all Tudor retailers. Value: A$6,060 (on material or hybrid strap), A$6,540 (on bracelet)
Model | Tudor |
Mannequin | Black Bay Professional |
Reference | M79470 |
Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 14.6mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
Case materials | Chrome steel |
Weight | 86g (watch head) 165g (with bracelet) |
Water Resistance | 200 metres, screw-down crown |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire entrance |
Dial | Matte black, vintage-tone block lume White opaline, white lume plots |
Lug Width | 20mm |
Straps | Jacquard NATO strap, pin buckle Hybrid rubber and leather-based strap, folding clasp Fake-riveted metal bracelet, security clasp T-Match |
Motion | MT5652, Kenissi-made, automated, COSC |
Energy Reserve | 70 hours |
Capabilities | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
Availability | Accessible now |
Value | A$6,060 (on material or hybrid strap) A$6,540 (on bracelet) |

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