Van Cleef & Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automaton

Borna Bošnjak

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• Van Cleef & Arpels’ lovers meet once more, now in additional fluid, dancing movement due to the brand new Bal des Amoureux calibre.
• Housed in a gem-set, white gold case, the brand new motion was made in-house at VCA, in addition to the grisaille enamel dial.
• Accessible on both an alligator leather-based strap or case-matching, blingy bracelet, the Bal des Amoureux stars at an eye-watering CHF 142,000.

Whereas nearly all of the model’s focus is undoubtedly on the jewelry aspect of the enterprise, Van Cleef & Arpels have been constructing their repute as a watchmaking home, too. The efforts that first began with the assistance of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht’s Agenhor (for those who’re not acquainted, components 1, 2, and three to your studying pleasure) continued to be introduced in-house, with the maison now in a position to produce most of its problems and dials themselves. And with the lately appointed CEO Catherine Rénier (who you’ll keep in mind from her days at JLC), I see VCA solely pushing the watchmaking envelope additional. However that’s to return, as the brand new Van Cleef & Arpels Bal des Amoureux is unveiled after 4 years in improvement, making it kind of a parting present from now-Richemont CEO Nicolas Bos, persevering with the story of VCA’s star-crossed lovers.

The assembly place? Paris, in fact. However this time, the scene strikes from the arched bridge to the entrance of a Parisian guinguette, an old-timey, en plein air institution recognized for inexpensive alcoholic refreshments, good instances, and dance. The time show continues to be a double retrograde, indicated by the 2 stars above the grisaille enamel clouds on the high of the dial, however it’s the automaton motion of the 2 lovebirds that’s modified. Equally to the Pont des Amoureux, the 2 meet at noon and midnight, however right here, they maintain fingers all the time, and in a easy movement lean in for a kiss. It’s a refined improvement from the numerous iterations of the Pont des Amoureux, and one which’s price testing in particular person.

Regardless of this seemingly easy improvement of the complication, the Bal des Amoureux required a brand new motion, and who higher than Rainer Bernard, Head of Analysis and Growth for Watchmaking at VCA, to clarify the method? “…we wished to offer our lovers probably the most pure gestures potential. This meant articulating them and mixing two simultaneous actions – their strategy in addition to their inclination towards each other…” It’s price stating that the animation will also be performed on-demand with the push of a button, which is probably going a contributing issue to the 36-hour energy reserve of the watch.

Granted, VCA offers only a few particulars relating to the operation of the motion and its specifics – actually, they’ve not even bothered to offer it an specific identify, and have truly hid it from view with an intricately designed caseback. This isn’t uncommon for Van Cleef & Arpels, and once I requested them about it (speaking in regards to the superior Brise d’Été), the reply I bought was very a lot alongside the traces of eager to protect the magic, reasonably than revealing precisely the way it occurs. Whereas my watch nerd mind isn’t fairly glad with that, it makes full sense for a model specializing in the storytelling and visible side of their watches.

With all that in thoughts, it’s not like there’s a lot they should again up with dry specs and descriptions of snail cams. VCA are fairly pleased with their métiers d’artwork, and present it off absolutely on the dials specifically. For the Bal des Amoureux, they’ve employed the strategy of grisaille enamelling, which entails portray layers of blanc de Limoges enamel powder to a darkish background, build up its layers to create distinction. On this case, to boost what would in any other case be a monochrome look, VCA additionally paints the dials with blue enamel, notably for the darkish clouds.

Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate pricing and availability

The Woman Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate is now obtainable. Worth: CHF 142,000, A$252,000 (leather-based), POA (bracelet)