Vega Sicilia Spanish Wines: Still Wearing the Crown in Spanish Wines

One Spanish property stands above all others on this planet of nice wine (okay, we’re placing Sherry to at least one aspect right here as that’s a wholly completely different debate).

A few years in the past, the well-known British wine scribe, Hugh Johnson, described Penfolds Grange Hermitage (because it was then – the Hermitage was dropped from the identify with the 1990, though it has been urged that their mindboggling collaborative new wine, a 50/50 mix with Jaboulet, is a again door manner of getting it again. I believe not) because the southern hemisphere’s First Development.

I believe most individuals thought the identical manner about Vega Sicilia and their Unico, though even all through the Eighties and Nineteen Nineties, many appeared to think about it as extra of a curio than the good wine it was. In these days, exports went to a tiny handful of nations (thankfully, Australia was one), however right now, that quantity is nearer to 150, which means that maybe it’s lastly receiving the respect and recognition it deserves.

Vega is situated in Ribera del Duero area, which is round two hours to the north of Madrid. Nobody is kind of positive of the rationale for the identify, Vega Sicilia, however it’s believed to narrate to the Catholic saint, Saint Cecilia, the patron saint of musicians. One other concept is that an individual known as Cecilia owned the land a few years earlier than it grew to become a famed wine property.

Vega is the identify for the inexperienced vegetation and fertile plains on the banks of the River Duero (when the Duero crosses the border into Portugal, it turns into the Douro, well-known for its essential position within the Port trade).  

That’s not to say that there have been not loads of good reds obtainable from Spain, particularly from Rioja, however Vega Sicilia was on a pedestal of which others may solely dream.

In the present day, there are a terrific many fantastic wines from the nation – particularly areas like Rioja, Ribera and Priorat – however whereas Vega Sicilia has challengers, it nonetheless holds the crown.

The issue is that we not often see it – uncommon and costly isn’t conducive to common sightings.

Vega Sicilia can be somewhat bit completely different – walks to the beat of various castanets, if that’s your factor. It’s the solely one of many world’s nice estates to commonly embrace a non-vintage pink within the premium portfolio – Penfolds dabbled with their G3, G4 and G5 lately, however that has now been shelved for the second because the experiment got here to an finish (a really profitable finish, nevertheless it was solely ever meant as a one-off, or three-off when you desire).

Vega has a number of completely different wines and wineries as a part of the general empire. We’ll get to all that.

Vega Sicilia is a vineyard with an extended historical past, courting again to 1864. Actually, Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves was given the property by his father in 1859. It was in 1864 that he went to France and returned with 18,000 cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot and even some Carmenere and Pinot Noir, though the latter two are now not in existence on the property. Within the early days, each wine and brandy have been made right here, the brandy maybe extra efficiently.

Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves had skilled in Bordeaux, and was supported by plenty of Bordeaux winemakers who had moved to Spain following the phylloxera catastrophe within the area. Alongside Tempranillo, he planted these French varieties (to the shock of many locals). At the moment, the property was not but referred to as Vega Sicilia.

Antonio Herrero and his brothers bought the property in 1888 and till 1903, it was referred to as Bodegas de Lecanda. Wine now took precedence, however up till across the starting of the First World Battle, when new administration took over, a lot of the wine produced was offered in bulk, and far of that to Rioja.

At the moment, the property was leased to a Rioja producer, Cosme Palacio, who outlined the type for its wine for the years to come back. The property was offered in 1952 and once more in 1966, earlier than the Alvarez household took over in 1982. 

Vega was somewhat little bit of an oddity in that once we consider probably the most well-known Spanish pink area, ideas inevitably flip to Rioja. However, as famous, Vega isn’t from there. It’s from a area which has now achieved the celebrity that’s its due, Ribera del Duero.

Ribera del Duero wine rising area in Northern Spain (map courtesy Wikipedia Commons)

That is largely a pink wine producing area with a continental local weather. Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) dominates, with some Garnacha and with worldwide varieties akin to Cabernet and Merlot.

1982 was the watershed 12 months for this property. Pablo Alvarez, a Bilbao-based lawyer, and his household bought Vega and at last, the Ribera del Duero area was granted DO (Denominación de Origen) standing – it’s a little shocking that this standing has not been upgraded to denominación de origen calificada. In 1982, there have been solely 9 wineries within the area.

If that appears somewhat astonishing, up till 1927, Vega Sicilia was actually by itself. We now have seen many nice producers subsequently be part of Vega within the area, together with names like Pesquera, Cillar de Silos, Valdubon and Pingus, amongst many others. In the present day, there are nearer to 300 wineries. There are additionally near 10,000 growers within the area.

The property remains to be within the arms of the Alvarez household and the empire has expanded to incorporate a number of different Spanish estates and even features a vineyard in Hungary (Tokaji). The household has invested closely in Vega and all wineries within the empire to make sure that the wine high quality, throughout the board, is healthier than ever.

The wines are identified for his or her capacity to age magnificently. A good friend opened the 1921 Unico a 12 months or so in the past – not lengthy after it celebrated its century. It was early days within the manufacturing of this wine, as the primary Unico ever launched was the 1915. There have been nonetheless interesting, if lingering, notes of pink fruits and florals, with grip, nevertheless it had definitely began to lose some focus and was somewhat drained.

The earthy and animal notes have been somewhat extra dominant. Hardly shocking, nevertheless it was nonetheless in higher situation than we’d have hoped for, for a wine of that age. Maybe the century was a bridge too far. Nonetheless, at that age, particular person bottles will carry out at various ranges and it is a wine identified to age together with the perfect of them. It’s typically in comparison with Latour, in that sense. 

The Alvarez household buying the property was removed from an entire disassociation with the previous. Mariano Garcia was the winemaker from 1966 to 1996. His father labored on the property within the years previous to that. Wineries with their very own cooperages are very uncommon – for instance, the southern hemisphere has just one, Yalumba – and Vega is considered one of them.

It has been owned and run by the identical household for 4 generations. After Garcia, Javier Ausàs took the winemaking reins and, since 2015, it has been Gonzalo Iturriaga.

For a few years, as talked about, Vega was the only vineyard within the Ribera
area, though Benedictine monks had been making wine there centuries earlier. As of late, the area is properly over 22,000 hectares. Ribera is one of the eleven outlined winemaking districts within the Castile and Leon neighborhood.

The Douro river in Northern Portugal

It’s also considered one of a number of areas alongside the Duero/Douro River, which enters the Atlantic after going by Portugal. Essentially the most well-known of these is unquestionably the Port producing district in that nation. 

The typical top above sea stage within the Ribera area strikes between 700 and 1,000 metres. 323 hectares are vines that are over a century in age. The area can see a large diurnal variation with nice warmth within the day and excessive chilly at evening.”

Regardless of the fairly blended fruit salad-like array of types at Vega, round 95% of the grapes within the area are Tempranillo, identified regionally as Tinto Fino. For a wine to qualify for the regional classification, it should be at the least 75% Tempranillo. Garnacha is turning into somewhat extra well-liked, and the worldwide pink varieties are restricted to a most of 25%.

Unico definitely had a a lot increased share of Cabernet, in addition to Merlot and Malbec, in years passed by. In the present day, it’s round 5 to 7% however plainly might scale back even additional. It additionally sometimes had a dribble of Albillo, a neighborhood white selection.

The area has the identical classes for its wines as different Spanish districts, with Cosecha, Crianza, Riserva and Gran Riserva.

The Vega/Alvarez empire has as its flagship, Vega Sicilia. Winemaking for his or her premium pink, Unico, has modified little over time and the wine is barely launched after ten years.

Vega Sicilia wine vats (picture courtesy www.vinello.eu)

Storage will differ barely however is prone to be alongside the traces of twelve to eighteen months in 200,000 litre vats, two years in new oak barrels, one other 12 months and a half in older barrels, an additional couple of years in massive oak vats after which a spell in bottle. Wild yeast fermentation takes place in oak.

Unico hails from the extra elevated vineyards on the property. It’s not made yearly. Plainly round twice a decade, circumstances should not thought of ok. They’re good years to chase the Valbuena n°5, which is the place the Unico grapes will discover themselves, if no Unico is made.

The ten- 12 months rule isn’t set in stone, though you not often discover Unico
launched any sooner than that.

For instance, some releases are held for significantly longer. In 1991 (a terrific classic for them), they launched each the 1982 and 1968, deeming them each prepared at that stage (and never earlier than).

The 1970, thought of a basic, noticed sixteen years in oak earlier than launch. Wanting again, the 1991 was certainly particular, however for me, it was surpassed by the 1994, an absolute basic.

This additionally implies that the wines should not essentially launched in chronological order, one thing very not often seen elsewhere – a couple of champagne producers have completed this on uncommon events, akin to when the superb 2008s demanded extra time within the cellar and the welcoming 2009s have been displaying their glories at an earlier stage.

In addition to Unico, Spanish for distinctive, they provide a extra reasonably priced wine (sure, every part is relative) in Valbuena n°5, which spends a complete of 5 years in barrel and bottle (two in barrel and three in bottle) earlier than launch, and the very uncommon, and really costly, Unico Reserva Especial.

Vega Sicilia Valbuena No. 5

Valbuena No. 5 is Tempranillo dominant, however might embrace a small share of Merlot. There was a Valbuena n°3, however within the late Eighties, as they appeared for a undertaking that grew to become Alion, they dropped it. It’s not unusual to seek out examples of that wine from the Eighties in winelovers’ cellars, and as a discontinued wine, it’s coveted by collectors when it seems at public sale.

Vega Sicilia Oremus Late Harvest

Outdoors this, we now have Pintia from Toro and Macán and Macán Clásico, from Rioja. Oremus is their vineyard in Hungary, making each dry Furmint and Tokay. It was established in 1993.

Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial

Unico Reserva Especial is one thing which is nearly distinctive on this planet of wine – a firstclass, premium pink which is a mix of vintages. The one different main vineyard that I can consider as doing one thing comparable was the trio of G wines from Penfolds, however this was all the time meant to be restricted to the three releases, G3, G4 and G5 (a mix of three, 4 and 5 vintages of Grange respectively).

Especial is a mix of three vintages, and they don’t have to be consecutive (normally, they’re moderately shut, however they’ve been identified to be a long time aside), which then spends a substantial time, as much as ten years, in barrel and bottle earlier than launch, longer if the winemaker deems it obligatory. Maturation is in a mixture of new and older French and American oak barrels, and likewise 20,000 litre tanks.

Alion is located subsequent door to Vega Sicilia and was bought by the household in 1991. The wine is 100% Tempranillo and normally spends round a 12 months in new French oak – up till 2014, this was 100% new however is now nearer to 80%. 

I bear in mind shopping for magnums of one of many very first releases, earlier than phrase of its high quality unfold too far and the worth shifted north. I’ll fortunately confess I knew completely nothing in regards to the wine on the time and web looking was not as simple and complex as it’s right now, however I figured, if Vega had something to do with it, odds on it could be particular.

For as soon as, I used to be spot on. They have been gorgeous stuff. I bear in mind the freshness and class of the wines.

Pintia 2018

An additional undertaking, Pintia, was established in Toro in 1997, first classic 2001. Years in the past, the Brisbane Hilton held an annual Masterclass weekend, meals and wine, with well-known names from each spheres from across the globe. A part of my accountability (as an unpaid committee member) was to advocate wineries.

In 2006, we enticed Vega Sicilia to attend, which was an enormous coup (they have been in good firm as we had everybody from Latour to Pol Roger to DRC over time). One of many wines they confirmed was their model new Pintia, the 2001. It made an actual affect.

Macán 2018

Macán is a three way partnership between Vega and Benjamin de Rothschild, established in 2013, a couple of years earlier than de Rothschild handed away, far too early in his 50s, though the idea was conceived a number of years previous to that. On the time, he was additionally the most important shareholder in Chateau Lafite Rothschild.

They launch two wines, Macán and Macán Clásico. Macán is taken into account to be the ‘Grand Vin’, whereas Macán Clásico is the second wine (cracking stuff for a second wine). Macán sees round sixteen to eighteen months in oak, whereas Macán Clásico sees a contact much less, normally across the twelve to 14 months.

Subsequent, and most not too long ago, a white wine undertaking. Deiva in Rías Baixas, the place they’ll work with the Albariño selection. The goal is to create a firstclass white, which may sit on a par with the good white Burgundies. The intention is to launch the primary 30,000 bottles in 2027, however finally to develop this to 300,000.

Vega Sicilia vineyards (picture courtesy www.wineanorak.com)

The property at Vega Sicilia is round 1,000 hectares, however solely simply over 200 hectares are used for wine manufacturing. The workforce has divided these into 19 discrete soil varieties, and additional, into 52 plots (or 56 or 62, relying on which supply of data one makes use of), that are all saved separate, at the least to start with. Solely 70 hectares on the property qualify for Unico.

In case readers might imagine that, as common, I’ve bought a bit enthusiastic about all this, Winesearcher has simply launched its prime ten record of Most Needed Spanish Wines for 2025. It’s no shock that Unico is No 1 (certainly, it could be a shock if it was not). Pingus, talked about above, is second, with Valbuena n°5 in third place. Alion is 7^th.

That is a unprecedented achievement. Three wines within the prime seven! Especial doesn’t make it however that is absolutely due to its rarified standing that one suspects many don’t even attempt to discover it.

Anybody doubting the drive for high quality want solely take a look at Pablo Alvarez’s choice to recall your entire manufacturing of 1994 Valbuena due to cork points. They’ve planted 50,000 cork timber to attempt to keep away from such issues in future, though the manufacturing of cork is a sluggish course of

Despite the fact that they have been planted practically 20 years in the past, it’s going to nonetheless be
one other eight years earlier than they will harvest their first crop. Suppose additionally
in regards to the in depth interval earlier than the Property releases the wines. Few
wineries can afford to hold the price of one thing like this. 

After all, the wines are something however low cost, and they might little doubt promote simply as properly if launched somewhat earlier. However that isn’t the Vega Sicilia
manner.

A take a look at a few of the wines (costs will differ around the globe – these are approximate costs for Australia in Aussie {dollars}, USD and euros are round 2/3s of those costs):Macán Clásico 2019 ($125) – This can be a cracking Rioja and whereas issues might change over time, in the intervening time, I discovered this to be sensible consuming and would most likely selected it over the Macán 2018, if opening a bottle tonight. Which may be partly as a result of 2019 is taken into account an outstanding classic. 2018 is an effective 12 months however not fairly the identical stage.

The nostril provides us spices, delicatessen meats, darkish pink fruits, herbs, leather-based, soy and aniseed. Perfumed and chic with a supple texture and nice but agency tannins. There’s additionally an intriguing meaty notice right here. A wine of focus and a lingering end. 93.

Macán 2018 ($200) – Just like the Clásico, that is 100% Tempranillo. A wine with an extended and promising future forward, the nostril is exhibiting notes of cassis, smoked meats, blackcurrants and chocolate, however it’s that attractive cassis character that actually is to the fore. Second use French oak is employed right here.

With time within the glass, notes of child leather-based and cloves emerge. A agency end, the plentiful tannins present severe grip. There’s extra complexity right here. It’s a ten-year proposition. When manufacturing reaches full steam, the workforce are aiming at 100,000 bottles of this wine yearly. 94.

Pintia 2018 ($180) – Toro is probably not the primary area one thinks of when contemplating class, however for this 100% Tempranillo gem (with 2020 and 2021, small quantities of Garnacha have been included, because the workforce consider that it will improve freshness and class), that’s definitely the route.

The usage of oak can be being lowered right here, only a 12 months in second use. There are notes of pink cherries, dried herbs, bergamot, milk chocolate, dried herbs, spices, raspberries and on the end, some bitter cherry characters. A silky texture, however there may be underlying energy. Recent, targeted and of medium size, it will present pleasure for at the least the subsequent half dozen years, probably longer. 93.

Valbuena n°5 2019 ($450) – A nostril of tobacco leaves, spices, hints of plums, dried herbs, raspberries and tomato bushes, this classic is 94% Tempranillo and 6% Merlot. There are notes of chocolate, mint, cherries and cassis. There’s already good complexity evident and it gives a lingering end with modern tannins and nice stability. It ought to drink superbly for at the least the subsequent eight to 12 years. 94.

Vega Sicilia Unico 2014

Unico 2014 ($1,200) – This classic is 94% Tempranillo and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nostril reveals an excellent array of flavours – chocolate, cassis, mulberries, earthy notes, tobacco leaves, spices, licorice, dried herbs, soy, mint and cloves. Great complexity right here. A robust and but elegant wine, it’s exquisitely balanced with nice size, ending with the silkiest of tannins.

It sees time in each American and French oak barrels of various measurement, the
American oak imported from Tennessee and/or Missouri, and become barrels by the property coopers. This can be a twenty-year wine and can go longer than that in good cellars. Cracking stuff. A wine which mixes the finesse of the best matador with the facility of the bull. 98.

Vega Sicilia Unico 2012

Unico 2012 ($1,200 – for Reserva Especial, anticipate round $1,800) – One other excellent model of Unico, this is a bit more savoury at this stage, but additionally with countless complexity. The nostril has notes of animal skins, raspberries, dry herbs, spices, bergamot, black cherries, plums, leather-based, florals, woodsmoke and beefstock.

Ever such nice tannins, on a really lengthy end, the wine reveals immaculate stability, a nice line of acidity and an depth that by no means waivers. Fifteen to twenty years, as a place to begin. 97.

For extra info, please go to www.temposvegasicilia.com/

You possibly can comply with extra of Ken Gargett’s opinions at www.kenfessions.com

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