Take a look at our newest merchandise
The watch market could also be experiencing a comparatively sluggish interval, however that hasn’t stopped the revival and relaunch of a number of high-end manufacturers. Whereas the general market could also be quiet, the higher finish remains to be going robust. Amidst this, City Jürgensen, the famed model from Copenhagen, is now getting into its third period.
Daniel Roth and Common Genève are two manufacturers which have not too long ago returned from the ashes with upscale choices and a concentrate on actions and ending. Effectively, that is what we assume from the upcoming Common mainline launches, anyway. With Daniel Roth, the watches have been acquired with near-unanimous reward. Now, City Jürgensen, with Kari Voutilainen because the CO-CEO, definitely seeks this degree of reception with its first three releases. Let’s take a short take a look at every.
The City Jürgensen UJ-1 flying tourbillon
The primary launch, referred to as the UJ-1, is out there in three variations. A platinum model with a grey dial, a platinum reference with a silver dial, and a rose gold mannequin with a silver dial. Every is restricted to 25 items and takes inspiration from the model’s Derek Pratt-designed Oval pocket created throughout the Eighties. Whereas the structure and form are easier, the palms and arc-shaped energy reserve show are harking back to the long-lasting piece. The watches have a diameter of 39.5mm and a thickness of 12.2mm. The case design is widespread to all the brand new fashions and contains brief, barely angled lugs. Curiously, all the new City Jürgensen watches have a depth ranking of 30 meters.
Relating to the dials, every has hand-guilloché ending in a Grain d’orge sample in the primary part. A Clous de Paris sample is discovered on the sub-seconds dial. Utilized silver or gold particulars are discovered all through the dial on the satin-polished subdial and chapter ring.
A powerful in-house motion
The brand new UJ-1 motion is seen by way of a guilloché-engraved case again and bears a robust resemblance to the unique motion within the Oval. It has a flying tourbillon motion with a remontoir d’égalité fixed drive mechanism. Once more, that is just like the unique and contains dead-beat seconds. The caliber is guide winding, has an influence reserve of 47 hours, and a frequency of 18,000vph. Naturally, City Jürgensen has gone to nice lengths to embellish and end the motion. 5N gold plating, perlage, and grenage are simply among the methods discovered on this magnificence. Of observe is the polished central bridge spanning the width of the motion. All of this comes at a value, although. Every bit, whatever the case materials, is out there for CHF 368,000.
The UJ-2, with a double-wheel pure escapement
The City Jürgensen UJ-2, with its comparatively comparable design, is undoubtedly associated to the UJ-1. In these references, nonetheless, the operating seconds subdial is off-center. These 39mm by 10.9mm items symbolize the model’s first new serial manufacturing mannequin and can be found in 4 case and dial colour mixtures.
Platinum or rose gold fashions are on provide with both blue or silver dials. Every makes use of comparable guilloché methods beneath the domed sapphire crystal.
As soon as once more, the UJ-2 motion is 5N gold-coated and makes use of a litany of hand-finishing processes, but it surely trades the tourbillon for a guide winding motion with a direct double wheel pure escapement. First conceptualized by Abraham Louis Breguet, the escapement has elevated effectivity and higher energy switch. Nonetheless, it’s identified to be extraordinarily troublesome to supply, and every instance requires roughly 565 hours of manufacturing time. City Jürgensen makes a robust level when stating that this type of motion is utilized in its “base” mannequin. Efficiency-wise, anticipate 52 hours of energy reserve from a decidedly conventional motion that runs at 18,000vph. The value is about at CHF 105,000 whatever the case materials.
The City Jürgensen UJ-3 moonphase
The ultimate new City Jürgensen launch is the UJ-3, which contains a perpetual calendar, moonphase complication, and soar mechanism at midnight. The 39mm by 13.9mm watches can be found in platinum or rose gold with a black dial. Just like the UJ-2, this isn’t a restricted version per se, however will probably be an unique mannequin.
Just like the earlier fashions, hand-made Grain d’orge guilloché is discovered on the primary dial, and 45° Clous de Paris is used on the calendar subdial. On this mannequin, a 3rd handmade sample, Sauté-piqué, is used for the minute monitor. All utilized particulars are constituted of 5N gold or silver, and the palms are flame-treated.
The UJ-3 caliber
The UJ-3 caliber, developed by Andreas Strehler and Kari Voutilainen, can be seen by way of the sapphire show again. It’s 5N coated and fully hand-decorated utilizing grenage, perlage, and domed chamfering. Notice that the intercalary year indicator is on the reverse facet of the motion. Impressively, the absolutely built-in perpetual calendar operate is correct to inside someday over the following 14,000 years! It would, nonetheless, must be wound each 52 hours. Both case materials is out there for CHF 168,000.
Last ideas
The brand new trio of City Jürgensen watches is spectacular. Every accommodates traditional styling with an air of modernity, particularly because it pertains to the clear case design. The actions are extremely spectacular, which isn’t shocking contemplating Voutilainen’s participation. Moreover, the dials are beautiful with the mixture of guilloché patterns and satin-finished particulars. It’s an excellent and heady begin. We’ll be eager to see how the model continues.
